Simple DIY Tilt Out Trash Bin – Convenient and Hidden!

When we were renovating this 1970 Travel trailer, the old furnace was not working and needed to be removed. This left me with a big vacant opening under the fridge to figure out what to do with. After weeks of avoiding the area I finally came up with the most perfect solution, a tilt out trash bin! Not only would it keep it out of the way yet easily accessible, it also had the old vent which would prevent it from getting “musty” in there! So let me break down this simple build although I will leave out specific measurements as you will need to measure your space to fit your dimensions.

Materials Needed:

3/4″ Plywood
Trash bin (I used a 5.5 gallon)
1.25″ screws
2 Folding butt hinges
Moulding of choice
Pin Nailer
Wood Glue
paint or stain
Pocket Hole Jig
Tape Measure
driver and Miter Saw
Cabinet Hardware of your choice
Chain or Rope with hook (optional)
Magnetic closing

Step 1: Cut your pieces

Measure the width of the opening and cut your bottom base piece 1/8″ shorter in width. The depth will be dependant on how deep your cabinet is, I was able to go 10″ which held a 5 gallon trash bin. Also cut a 1×3 the exact length of the opening and add pocket holes to both sides. This will be what you attach your front to which will allow it to tip out.

You will also cut two 90 degrees triangles the depth of the trash can. The easiest way is to cut a square the depth and do a mitered cut at 45 degrees down the middle to create the two triangles.

The last piece you need is the front board. Take the height of the opening and subtract 2.5″ for the 1×3 that will be at the bottom along with 1/4″ for a small gap for hinges. This will be the height of the board and the width is the same measurement you got for the bottom base width.

Step 2: Assemble Pieces

Using wood glue, run a bead along the bottom of each triangle and place on the base. Make sure the flat 90 degree side is flush with the front. Secure with 1.25″ Screws.

Next attach the front piece to the base and triangles on the straight side. Use wood glue and screws.

Next attach the 1×3 at the base of the opening you have. Make sure this is a snug fit. I secured mine with pocket holes from the inside so they wouldn’t be visible. Once this is attached dry fit the door on the 1×3 to make sure it all fits and will maneuver correctly.

I used scrap 3/4″ plywood I had on hand so I attached a thin smooth utility panel that I cut to size with wood glue and pin nails to the front. This hid the screws and gave me a seamless surface to either paint or stain. After that was secured I added a small moulding piece to create a framed edge, cutting these with mitered corners. I secured with wood glue and pin nails.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

Now you can choose to paint or stain the door. I chose to create the same faux wood look that I did throughout the rest of the cabinetry in the trailer. Next you will add the butt hinges to the bottom of the door and then align the door with the oipening add secure the hinge to the top of the 1×3 support. This will give it the “tilt”. I added a cabinet handle and magnetic closure along with a chain and hook in the inside to prevent it from falling all the way out.